Overview of the itinerary
Sentiero Italia runs the length of the island’s eastern side, covering its most important mountains, in 28 stages. Starting from the north: it flanks the Monte Limbara massif, crosses the limestones of Mont’Albo and Tuttavista, skirting the Gulf of Orosei, it crosses the Supramonte, Gennargentu and the Tacchi of Ogliastra and reaches Perdasdefogu. Further south, it passes through Armungia and the Gerrei sub-region. Lastly, it touches on the villages of Burcei and San Gregorio, continuing on the Sette Fratelli massif to the old prisons of Castiadas.
General information on Sentiero Italia (Grand Italian Trail)
Sentiero Italia, or Grand Italian Trail, as also explained on the official website, is a walking route that crosses the whole of Italy, using mainly but not exclusively “registered trails”.
In particular, in Sardinia, not all the stages of the Sentiero Italia of CAI (Italian Alpine Club) are made of trails already included in the registry of the Sardinia Trail Network (RES), either because they have not yet been tested and approved or simply because they cannot be registered as they do not meet the requirements. However, as a whole, the Sentiero Italia is the single longest walking route currently crossing Sardinia from the north (S. Teresa Gallura, stage Z 1) to the south (Castiadas, end of stage Z 28), touching on the most fascinating mountain areas in central-eastern Sardinia: the plateau of Buddusò, Tepilora, the Cedrino river valley, the ancient forests of Montes, Perda Liana and the regional forest of Montarbu, Monte Genis, and lastly the regional forest of Settefratelli (among the many crossed by the various stages of this long hiking itinerary).
Information on this stage of the trail
This stage starts at the Montarbu forest ranger station, a beautiful facility that the Forestas Agency makes available for overnight stays, booking a few days in advance with the relevant offices in Lanusei. The site is well equipped and here you can refill your water supply.
Walking along a dirt track, after about 800 m you will go through a gate and continue along a well-marked path until you have the railway on your right. Currently, the trenino verde (‘little green train’) that runs on that route is not operating due to maintenance work on the ‘su irtzioni’ bridge 800 m further ahead.
The path continues on a dirt track parallel to the railway, through the forest and after about 2 km, it emerges onto a large clearing with a picnic area and a pinnetto (traditional shepherd’s hut) in need of restoration. Further on, turning left for about 300 m, is the beautiful ‘funtana de sa berda’ spring. The path continues downhill, and with a couple of bends you will reach the 'Riu sa taula’ river. You can cross the river near a beautiful natural pool with a small waterfall. Continue uphill following the course of the river, which is full of interesting sights, including a large limestone formation in the shape of a tortoise. After about 1 km, you will arrive at another picnic area, in the ‘Tuvu Nieddu’ locality where there is an abundant spring. Cross the river and continue on a dirt track to the bar-restaurant where there is a beautiful picnic area (not open all year round) near which there is also a stop of the trenino verde (‘little green train’), called ‘Stazione di Niala’.
The Sentiero Italia continues to the left on a steep upward path with some paved sections. On the right, halfway up the slope, deviating from the trail, you will find a sculpture by famous artist Pinuccio Sciola depicting 6 limestone balls with a diameter of 80 cm. Here too you will find drinking water and a picnic area.
Returning to the route, still through the forest, you will come to a plateau where a dirt track leads, after about 5 km, to a fascinating archaeological site, ‘is Tostoinus’. Here you can admire a nuraghe (prehistoric stone fortress) and a tomb of the giants (megalithic communal tomb).
Further on, crossing a stream with a picturesque wooden bridge, you will reach a picnic area with drinking water and a very well maintained pinnetto (shepherd’s hut) that might be used as a camping facility in the future.
Leaving this area, which is very well maintained by Forestas, the ascent to the ridge begins. Here, the craggy and arid terrain makes the route particularly challenging during the summer. After about 4 km, the descent towards the end of the stage begins along a well-cleared and very scenic path that runs along the entire valley. Once in Gairo Taquisara, a picturesque small village with 300 inhabitants huddled at the bottom of a valley clothed in holm oaks and fir trees, you can stay overnight at a hotel or B&B or stop for refreshments at the bar.
A very beautiful, not very long, stage through the woods of ‘Tonneri di Ussasai-Seui’, a shaded area with several freshwater springs.
